Panzanella Meets Caesar
I often find myself in a situation where I don’t have much choice about what I can eat. I write and test certain recipes, try specific street food, visit particular restaurants. I’m not complaining,...
View ArticleThe Super Maltini
The martini is my cocktail. I always order it with a twist, and not too dry, because martinis in London come dry as a bone as standard. Shake it with ice and I will jump over the bar and have words...
View ArticleOn Fear, Flying and Inflight Food
For a long time I had a serious fear of flying. The first trigger would be the moment I unzipped my suitcase to start packing, and from then I would feel nauseous, dizzy and like I wanted to run...
View ArticleThe Wye Valley: Mucking About In Hedgerows
Wandering around this part of the world, an hour or so from where I grew up in Gloucestershire, is very comforting. I feel nostalgic. As we approach Monmouthshire on the train the view outside the...
View ArticleMaking Hortopita with Fresh Filo in Rovies, Greece
As I stood over Koula watching her roll the filo around her skinny rolling pin, stretching it out towards either end with her hands, unrolling it back into a flat circle, then rolling it again around...
View ArticleSpaghetti with Sprouts, Anchovies and Chilli
Sprouts are brilliant. Every year I go crazy for them, stuffing their titchy leaves into toasted sandwiches, eating them with bacon and egg on toast and now, shredding them into spaghetti. Many people...
View ArticleMy Best Shakshuka Recipe
Shakshuka is one of those dishes that has been pounced on by the worthy eaters. It seems that whenever the carb-fearing, joy-avoiding, clean eating brigade are called upon to offer a brunch recipe,...
View ArticleMy Favourite Recipes of 2015
What a year! It’s been quieter on these pages then I would’ve liked for two reasons, the first being personal stuff I won’t bore you with, the second being that my freelance writing really got going...
View ArticleTrifle of Dreams
Ooof. So that’s that, then. Christmas is done. I’m convinced that all the over eating is due to the fact that the run up is so stressful. Presents, people, parties. It all adds up to a big ball of...
View ArticleThe Richest Ragu
You give me the richest ragu/That’s why I’m in love with you. Those are Sade lyrics, in case I’ve lost any of my younger readers. She loved ragu, apparently. Couldn’t get enough. This recipe is from...
View ArticleGözleme
Remember when I told you about my love for sprouts? If it were up to me, they’d be having their moment. Recently, they’ve had to put up with avocados hogging the attention, then kale, and worst of...
View ArticleSquash & Miso Soup with Cheese & Kimchi Toasties
I never thought I’d be posting a squash recipe here, let alone a squash soup. I used to loathe the pappy sweetness of most orange-fleshed gourds, and they’re like pure baby food when whizzed into a...
View ArticleTagliatelle with Cauliflower and Crispy Capers
You may notice that things looks a little different around here. Finally, the site looks close to the way I wanted it before I hired a dodgy developer in India who tacked it together with sellotape...
View ArticleCurry Goat
Peckham is now so trendy it’s no longer cool. I haven’t even lived there for four years, yet just the other day I got a letter from the clothing brand Anthropologie addressing me as M. Peckham. Even...
View Article24 Hours In Hanoi
Hanoi is beautiful, shocking, grimy, chaotic and exhilarating. I fell in love with the place and then had to rip myself away after a mere 24 hours but – surprise surprise – I managed to do a whole lot...
View ArticleFood Stories Reader Survey
I wonder if you could do me a little favour? I’m always trying to improve this site and I find myself wondering what it is that you lot want to see more of (and less). In the end I realised that the...
View ArticleSweetcorn and Kimchi Fritters
So brunch is a big thing, then. We’re not allowed to go out for breakfast any longer – we must brunch. The Australians are mad for it, with their avocados and endless cups of coffee. In America...
View ArticleMy Food and Drink Confessions
It is part of my job to identify food trends – something I simultaneously love and loathe. I must visit the hot new restaurants, yet at the same time I enjoy spending time in old favourites, places...
View ArticleRetsina Braised Shoulder of Goat with Whipped Feta
I sit here stroking my weary ribs, which have only just stopped jiggling after I read your comments on my food confessions post. It seems that we’re all secretly hoofing back corned beef and salad...
View ArticleChipotle Goat Tacos with Sour Creamed Corn
So it turns out that a shoulder of goat goes a reeaally long way – the two of us were eating that thing for a week. As much as it was great braised and stuffed into pitta bread, there are rules about...
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